Softbox Types

There are many ways to construct a softbox, but they generally fall into two categories:

Lights integrated into the box

This type of build treats the box and the lights as a single rig. The lights mount directly inside the frame, and the whole thing can be raised, lowered, and tilted as one.

Pros:

• Can be raised, lowered, and tilted as a single unit

• Light direction stays consistent when angling

• Easy to cap the box and control return bounce off the diffusion

• Looks clean and pro

• Electricians love it
  
  

Cons:

• Gets heavy quickly - even with smaller fixtures

• Larger boxes require chain motors and load-bearing pick points

• Rigid skeleton required for light support (often modular truss or box truss)

• Longer build times

Lights mounted independently from the box

Here, the lights stay hard-mounted to a pipe grid or truss, and the softbox skeleton is hoisted up around them. The lights don’t move when the box does - they’re separate rigs.

Pros:

• More budget-friendly

• No chain motors needed - hoist the box skeleton with multiline

• Load distributes better across pipe grids

• Faster and easier to rig (and de-rig)
  
  

Cons:

• Can’t tilt box and maintain light direction

• Harder to reposition (lights are fixed)

• Capping the box to prevent return bounce off the diffusion becomes difficult

• Modifying rags or LCDs requires dropping the softbox

Softbox Builds

Speedrail

Speedrail is one of most common components in grip work - and for good reason. It’s modular, strong, easy to source, and already in most trucks. That’s why we also use it to build softboxes.

We typically work with 1-1/4” pipe on first unit. Some rigging departments carry 1-1/2” for heavier builds, but for softboxes up to 12x12 or even 20x20, 1-1/4” gets it done.

Speedrail softbox skeleton builds

When I build a speedrail softbox:

• I need an integrated box sized 12’x12’ or smaller

• We're only rigging a few lightweight units (Skypanel S60s, Vortex 8s, LiteTile, Aputure 600’s)

• I want to rope up a box skeleton around grid-mounted lights - no motors involved

If we’re integrating the lights, I add ribs across the top to hang fixtures. If not, we leave the top open and just build the sides and bottom. Any side over 12’ gets an extra vertical in the middle to avoid flex. For standard builds (4x8, 8x8, 12x12), corner verticals are often enough.

We typically run a 4’ drop, which gives optimal light spread and clean distance between fixtures and diffusion. If we need the box to be more compact, we’ll shorten the verticals. For LiteTile builds, a 1’ or 2’ drop is fine since the source is already spread out and soft.

Common sizes: 4’x8’, 6’x12’, 8’x8’, 12’x12’

Typical drop: 4’ (LiteTile builds may use 2’ or 1’ drops)

A speedrail softbox with a short drop

A 4’ drop works well with duvetyne sides - 54” wide duve lets you hang it below the frame to cover any leaks

Materials:

• 1-1/4” speedrail

• Hollaender rackmasters

• Hollaender short barrel crosses

• Duvetyne

• Speedclips

• The diffusion rag
  
  

Safety Tips:

• Always clove hitch multiline and finish it with a half hitch

• Check all grub nuts - tight but not over-tight

• Use Rackmasters when possible - two grub screws per outlet = safer than 3 way corners

• Safety all lighting units

Square Stock

Square stock builds are ideal when you're going for a light, clean, and fast softbox - especially when the lights are already rigged separately.

Square stock softbox skeletons

We usually carry 1” square stock on the truck for lighting frames and adapt that same stock into softbox builds. It’s lightweight, doesn’t require heavy rigging hardware, and goes together fast.

We build these boxes in two main styles:

1. 1” square stock softboxes - Fast builds using standard frame corners, duvetyne clipped with #1 grip clips, and standard diffusion rags.
   
   

2. 3/4” softbox kits - Purpose-built softboxes using 3/4” stock with velcro sides and rags. These are designed specifically for softbox use and result in the cleanest builds.

Why 3/4” square stock rules:

• Velcro sides and diffusion = cleanest softbox look possible

• No rag ties, no clips, no spill

• Structure stays rigid with lightweight materials

• Looks clean

Velcro on our 3/4” softbox hardware

We carry prebuilt 8’x8’ and 12’x12’ softbox kits with velcro sides and custom diffusion - squeaky clean builds.

When you want to integrate lights into a softbox with the cleanest looking build I’ll integrate the 3/4” box onto a Modulus-X skeleton. The Modulus-X provides the rigidity needed for light integration and the support for the 3/4” box to attach to it. (More below)

Sizing is a bit more limited with square stock - you’re generally working in 4’, 6’, 8’, and 12’ increments - but it’s easy to mix and match to make frames like 6x12 or 8x8.

Materials:

• 3/4” or 1” square stock

• Three-way corners

• Duvetyne

• #1 grip clips or velcro sides

• Velcro diffusion or standard rag

• Endless ratchets for rigging to grid/truss

Safety Tips:

• Clove hitch and finish with a half hitch to attach multiline

• Clips should face inward to prevent falling

• Double-check grub nuts on hardware

• Soft doesn’t mean weak - rig it like it’s heavy

Modulus-X & Pipe

Modulus-X (or ModTruss) brings structure and scalability to larger builds or integrated rigs. I typically use ModX for the top frame only, then build out the sides and bottom with speedrail. This gives us the best of both worlds: the strength and modularity of truss, and the flexibility and low profile of speedrail.

Softboxes built with Modulus-X and pipe

How I build it:

• Top frame and ribs = Modulus-X

• Attach verticals with speedrail starters

• Bottom frame = full speedrail skeleton (rackmasters + couplers)

If I’m building a Modulus-X and pipe softbox, I’ll typically construct the entire top frame - and any ribs needed for light support - out of ModX. That top truss frame gives me the strength and structure needed to span speedrail cross members inside the box for fixture mounting.

(If you need a refresher on softbox parts like ribs, frames, or drops, check out Part 1 of this series.)

To complete the box shape, I mount speedrail starters into the bottom corners of the ModX and use couplers to connect my verticals. At this point, I could just build a simple bottom frame and call it a day - hang duvetyne from the truss top, attach the diffusion, done.

Here’s how we attach a speedrail box to ModX

But here's where things get tricky: Because ModX truss sits wider than the speedrail bottom frame, the duvetyne sides don’t fall cleanly. They taper inward at an angle and create slack or weird lines. The build might function, but it doesn't look clean - and it complicates things like tying off the rag or hiding light leaks. So instead, I take it a step further.

I build a full speedrail box skeleton - top and bottom - mounted underneath the ModX. Just like we’d do in a standalone speedrail softbox, using Rackmasters for all the joints. Here's how:

1. Attach Rackmasters to the speedrail starters in each corner of the ModX
   
   

2. Below the Rackmaster, add a coupler and attach your vertical drop pipe

   - If the starter is 6", I’ll use a 3.5’ pipe to still hit a 4’ total drop
   
   

3. Use Rackmasters to build the bottom speedrail frame (just like with the speedrail build)
   
   

4. Now your duvetyne can hang cleanly - clipped from the top speedrail frame and falling squarely to the bottom frame
   
   

This method gives you the best of both systems: the strength and lift capabilities of Modulus-X, and the clean softbox edges and fall lines of a traditional speedrail build. It takes a little longer to rig, but the end result looks tight, controls spill better, and sets you up for faster tweaks on set. As an added bonus - if you want an even smaller profile build use base flanges on the ModX and pass the pipe through the truss.

Hollaender base flanges for modular truss

Modulus-X and speedrail work with all different sizes - even very large boxes. You just need to add more vertical supports and connect those to the truss as well.

Want to combine ModX + 3/4” square stock?

Build an “H” frame with ModX. Undersize the width by 1’ and rest the square stock box on top, secured with small ratchet straps. Perfect for 8’x8’ or 12’x12’ builds where clean edges matter and no spill matters.

The “H” configuration in action with pass through flanges for the pipe

You can attach speedrail to Modulus-X and ModTruss a few different ways. You can use grenades (speed rail starters), pipe adaptors from ModTruss, or hollaender flange bases. The flange bases pass the pipe through the truss which is great for when you need to keep everything low profile.

To attach pick points to the truss sling some GAC Flex through the modular truss holes and secure with a shackle pin up.

Materials:

• Modulus-X truss

• Speedrail

• Rackmasters, starters

• 3/4” square stock kits (optional)

• Ratchet straps

• Duve and diffusion (or velcro sides and diffusion for 3/4”)
  
  

Safety Notes:

• Double-check all ModX hardware

• Do the same for all grub nuts on speedrail or square stock

• Secure box skeletons to truss at multiple points

• Safety lighting fixtures

Box Truss & Pipe

When ModX isn’t available, or when you’re already working in box truss for other reasons, it can double as your softbox structure. You can either:

1. Build the softbox into the truss structure itself
   
   

2. Use the truss as a pick point to raise a pipe-based box

Softboxes built with box truss and pipe

Option 1 – Truss-Integrated Softbox:

Build the top frame out of box truss. Mount verticals with Proburgers or flange clamps, build the bottom with pipe, and finish with duve and rag. Avoid using Proburgers at the bottom corners if you’re wrapping the rag - they’ll puncture it.

Option 2 – Truss as Lift Frame:

Sometimes you just need a way to motorize the box with. Build a speedrail softbox and hang it off truss pick points. This is cleaner, cheaper, and faster when you don’t need a full truss structure but still want to raise and lower with motors. As an added bonus you can integrate your lighting points onto the truss.

Box truss used as pick points for the softbox and lights

For big builds - 20’x40’, 30’x60’, 60’x100’ - we add thin belly lines under the rag to prevent sag. Cross members should be spaced no more than 12’ apart to avoid droop.

To attach pick points to the truss sling some GAC Flex using baskets (Check out box truss rigging methods here).

Materials:

• Box truss

• Proburgers or flange clamps

• Speedrail skeleton

• GAC Flex, shackles

• Duve + oversized diffusion rag

Safety Notes:

• Connect verticals to both top and bottom chords if you’re doing verticals off the box truss

• Double-check Proburgers and truss hardware

• Use GAC Flex baskets when slinging box truss

• Add additional ribs to span more than 12’

Speed Grid

Speed Grid is a proprietary overhead grid and softbox system from SGPS/ShowRig. It’s modular, lightweight, and specifically designed for situations where you need large, motorized softboxes without a built-in grid.

Originally developed to rig grids in empty spaces, the system now includes more softbox-specific components with adjustable heights, sizes, and internal mounting points for fixtures.

Speed grid softboxes

Why use it:

• Great for studios, stages, or any space without a pipe grid

• Quick to assemble and strike

• Modular = customizable size + height

• Designed to integrate motors easily

Motors are required - these boxes get heavy despite being aluminum.

Pick points are built into the verticals, and the top tubes are pre-drilled to accept shackles. The whole system is designed for efficiency and repeatability.

Materials:

• Speed Grid ladder beams

• Integrated lighting cross members

• Motors

• Duvetyne and diffusion

• Shackles and motor rigging

Safety Notes:

• Tighten all Speed Grid bolts

• Always safety lighting fixtures

• Use built-in pick points - no sketchy workarounds

A speed grid box being built

Making Your Softboxes Look Clean

Ever look at a softbox and wonder how it looks so damn clean? No sag, no light leaks, perfect seams, squared corners. Here’s the secret sauce:

Oversize Your Rag

If you’re building a 12’x12’ softbox, don’t use a 12x12 rag - use a 20x20. For an 8x8 box, go with a 12x12 rag. You want the diffusion to wrap underneath the frame and come up evenly on all four sides. This gives you full edge control and lets you tension the fabric in a way that keeps it smooth and sealed.

Here’s how I do it:

• Tie a perimeter line that runs through the midpoint of all four sides - essentially creating a "belt" around the outside of your frame.

• Then, take your oversized rag and lash it tight to that line all the way around.

• When you reach the corners, fold and tension them cleanly - no bunching or sag.

This method pulls the rag snug from all directions, eliminates sag, and gives your box clean, square edges that hold their shape.

This one detail can take a softbox from “functional” to “flawless.” It’s worth the extra setup time, and it’s easy to do.

An oversized diffusion rag on a softbox makes it look seamless

The Build Is in the Details

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to softbox builds - and that’s exactly what makes them such a core part of grip craft. Whether you’re working with basic pipe and clips or full-scale modular truss and motors, the goal is always the same: build something safe, functional, and clean.

Knowing when to use speedrail, when to pull out square stock, when to step up to ModX, or when to bring in truss or Speed Grid isn’t just about gear - it’s about understanding the demands of the shot, the limitations of the space, and the resources you have on hand.

What separates a good softbox from a great one is often in the small details: the fall of the duvetyne, the tension on the rag, the placement of a single corner joint. These are the things we dial in not just for safety - but for pride, professionalism, and the respect of the crew around us.

So whatever you’re building - big or small, fast and dirty or polished and pristine - build it with intention. And when in doubt: oversize your rag.